Coober Pedy: The Underground Town Beneath the Desert

Coober Pedy, with a population of approximately 2,000, is a unique town where most residents live underground to escape the harsh climate and scorching heat of the desert. Located in South Australia, about 846 km north of Adelaide, Coober Pedy is also known as the “Opal Capital of the World,” as around 70% of the world’s opals are mined here.

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The Serbian Orthodox Church is built underground in the town of Coober Pedy. It was built by Serbs in 1993, when they settled here to work as opal miners.

Around 150 million years ago, the area of Coober Pedy was covered by an ocean. As the sea receded, climate changes caused groundwater levels to drop. Silica deposited in underground cavities and cracks gradually formed opals over millions of years.

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Stained glass windows let in natural light at the church entrance.

Initially named Stuart Range Opal Field after John McDouall Stuart, the first European explorer to reach the area in 1858, the site was renamed in 1920 to establish a post office. The name “Stuart Range” was deemed unsuitable due to its similarity to “Stewart Range” in Washington, USA. Miners chose the new name, Coober Pedy, derived from an Aboriginal term meaning “White Man in a Hole.”

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A house carved into the desert rock of the town of Coober Pedy.

There are hundreds of active opal mines in Coober Pedy, with an estimated several hundred thousand abandoned mines scattered across the region after a century of mining. Miners typically drill vertically into the ground before excavating horizontally in search of opals. They use machinery to vacuum the earth and rocks to the surface, creating massive dirt mounds that dot the landscape around the town.

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Đá mắt mèo ẩn trong lớp đá dưới lòng đất.
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Rocks and soil from the quarries form large pyramid-shaped piles throughout the town.

According to Stephen Staines, a town councilor, Coober Pedy is one of the most extreme and remote environments in Australia. Summer temperatures average 38°C (100°F) and often reach as high as 43°C (109°F). Vegetation is sparse, and the weather is arid.

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The only bookstore in town is dug underground.

“There are opals here worth $10,000–$20,000 per ounce (28.3 grams). Once cut and polished, their value increases tenfold,” said Helfand, an American who began mining in Coober Pedy in the early 1970s. “This work gives me freedom, which is why I continue mining.”

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Like many gem seekers, Kenneth Helfand, a miner, says the high profits have kept him in the business of mining opals for the past five decades.

Some structures repurpose old mines, while others are carved deeper into rock walls. The average temperature in these underground homes is a stable 21°C (70°F), providing a reliable refuge from both heat and cold. These homes also protect residents from the frequent sandstorms that sweep through the area.

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A house carved out of the ground, with tables salvaged from the cliffs and other furnishings kept to a minimum.
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The underground museum helps visitors experience the life of a miner.
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The billiards room in the Downunder Dugout hotel in town.

In addition to underground houses, the town also has shops, bars, and restaurants above ground to serve the needs of residents and visitors.

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People play golf on carpets because this desert area has almost no grass.
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The main road runs through town, where red soil from the opal mines covers the pavement.

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