A food alley from the past hidden in bustling Tokyo

Tucked away behind Shinjuku Station in Tokyo, Omoide Yokocho offers visitors a nostalgic journey back in time with its 70-year history.

A Food Alley From The Past Hidden In Bustling Tokyo

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Shinjuku Omoide Yokocho is a narrow alley packed with small izakayas and bars, creating an atmosphere that recalls Japan’s Showa era (1926–1989). After World War II, more than 300 shops once lined the alley, but today around 80 remain, serving specialties such as grilled chicken skewers (yakitori), hearty meat stews, and ramen. Each establishment has different operating hours, but the best time to visit is between 5:00 p.m. and 10:00 p.m.

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Red lanterns, smoky aromas, and the sight of customers squeezing into tiny eateries make Omoide Yokocho feel like stepping into a time machine. To truly experience its charm, pick a spot that feels inviting, order a drink with a few skewers of yakitori, and don’t hesitate to strike up a conversation with the person next to you—it’s surprisingly easy to make friends here.

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The alley’s name, Omoide Yokocho, literally means “Memory Lane.” In the past, however, it was known as Shonben Yokocho or “Piss Alley,” due to the lack of public restrooms. Thankfully, there is now a shared public toilet, although it still keeps the traditional squat style, so female visitors may prefer to use another restroom beforehand.

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Omoide Yokocho is more than just a dining spot—it’s a reflection of Japan’s culture of making the most of limited space, and of its after-work social traditions. For many salarymen, the alley provides a place to unwind after a long day at the office, sipping sake in their black suits and white shirts, briefcases at their feet, while enjoying simple side dishes like salted edamame and miso soup.

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Whether you’re drawn by its nostalgic charm, curious about local izakaya culture, or simply looking for a unique spot to enjoy Tokyo’s nightlife, Omoide Yokocho offers an experience unlike any other. While it may not appeal to everyone due to its cramped spaces and smoky atmosphere, those who embrace its character will find a lively glimpse into Tokyo’s past tucked away in the heart of the city.

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