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Why you MUST visit South Africa
318 days
by ClareAppleyard
in South Africa
It’s the question that gets me every single time.
“Is it safe to visit South Africa?”
Inevitably, my blood starts to boil as I brace for the next hammer blow, “Because you know, from what I’ve heard it’s very dangerous and they’ve told me not to visit”.
Who are the ominipresent “they”?
Have they ever been to South Africa?
Have they ever travelled through the many parts of our countryside?
Have they taken the time to educate themselves on our nation, or are they just regurgitating snippets that they’ve heard on the news, found on the web or overheard from some disillusioned, white, ex-South African who emigrated because “the country is going to the dogs under that black government”?
[Please, excuse my frankness, but those are often the people trash-talking South Africa]
But, despite the resounding success that was the 2010 World Cup, despite 19 years of freedom for all, despite everything, people are still reticent to visit South Africa because they deem it too dangerous, too risky, too threatening.
In my work with American tour groups, I find that the travellers have inevitably been warned (by well-meaning relatives and neighbors), not to book that package tour to South Africa, yet the groups all thoroughly enjoy South Africa and would “highly recommend it”. In the advent of travel bloggers, more and more bloggers are visiting South Africa and I have yet to hear a bad word spoken against South Africa.
Disappointingly though, despite all the positive experiences we hear about, negative media about South Africa still abounds.
Enough! It’s our job as responsible South Africans to change that.
So, I polled a variety of travel bloggers who have visited South Africa for their Top 2 reasons on Why You Should Must Visit South Africa. There were some common themes that surfaced together with some touching, heart-felt responses. Let’s hear what some of our favourite bloggers had to say….
Diverse & Spectacular Scenery
Not surprisingly, this rated highly on many blogger’s lists. Keith Jenkins of Velvet Escape highlights the “jagged snow-capped peaks of the Drakensberg to expansive savannah and rugged coastlines” as an example of the natural beauty that South Africa has to offer. Africa lover Sandy Salle (Hills of Africa) echoes this sentiment as she celebrates South Africa “for its spectacular wine lands, unspoiled beaches, as well as Cape Town, which compares to a mini San Francisco!”.
A spectacular portion of the False Bay coastline, Cape Town
Perhaps one of the most enthusiastic votes for this category came from Wandering Earl who notes “From large, vibrant cities to beautiful coastal communities, from mesmerizing wine regions to tiny towns in the middle of nowhere, and everything in between, every region of South Africa feels as if it is an entirely different country in itself.”. Nothing quite beats an African sunset either for amazing colours against wide open skies. Check out Craig Zabranksy’s amazing gallery of South African sunsets, and see for yourself.
A spectacular birds-eye view over part of the Central Drakensberg.
The “Big 5” Safari Experience
Many visitors to South Africa come solely for the purpose of visiting the Kruger Park to spot wild animals in their natural habitat. “Seeing all these amazing animals in their natural environment while enjoying the beautiful landscape” was a personal highlight for Earth Xplorer J.D. Andrews and “viewing the “Big 5” (lion, leopard, buffalo, elephant & rhino) in person was a remarkable experience” for Landloper Matt Long. Jen Pollack Bianco and Cailin O’Neil both share this common sentiment, after their visits to South Africa included a safari expedition.
A Leopard, the only one of the Big 5 that eluded me for 30 years.
Sandy Salle highly recommends visiting some of our many monkey and elephant sanctuaries, all of which offer guided sightseeing tours, allowing you to get within meters of the animals. Don’t discount our offshore wildlife either, home to whales, dolphins and Great White Sharks, all off which can be spotted along many parts of our coastline.
A ring-tailed lemur takes advantage of breakfast at the Monkeyland Sanctuary, Eastern Cape.
Delicious Food and Drink
There was no shortage of enthusiastic comments regarding the variety of top class South African cuisine. Some bloggers, like The Travel Tart, raved about particular South African dishes, quipping “There’s nothing like stuffing your face with a half-loaf of bread packed with tasty curry” (known as a Bunny Chow). Cailin O’Neil was particularly smitten with our local game meats, particular “springbok and kudu” and shares our fondness for a “braai” – the Afrikaans word for a barbeque. Cape Town in particular offers a huge diversity in cuisines and, if Indian food is your flavour, head to Durban where you’ll find some of the best curries outside of the subcontinent.
Delicious tikka chicken street food on sale in Fordsburg, Johannesburg
South Africa is well known for its world-class wines, something that Keith Jenkins is particularly passionate about. The Stellenbosch & Franschoek regions in the Western Cape are home to many award-winning wine-farms, so be sure to add this destination to your itinerary. And, if you prefer your tipple a little sweeter, be sure to sample Amarula, a cream-liqueur made from the fruit of the Marula tree. It’s exceptionally delicious, very South African and very, very addictive as Craig Zabransky discovered when he attended the World Cup in South Africa in 2010!
“It will change your life”
At a first glance, I thought The Explorateur’s comment about a visit to South Africa being a life-changing experience was a little bit of a cliché. But, as I received more and more responses along similar lines, I began to realize that she had a point. The Explorateur is well known in South Africa, and she found the “real” South Africa when she chose to break out of the “safety” of her hotel and took a tour through Soweto, a local African township. From meeting a tour guide who was imprisoned during the Apartheid era, to being musically serenaded by school children in tattered clothing, The Explorateur discovered that when you look beyond the surface of South Africa, “you’ll gain a whole new perspective on yourself and what’s important”.
Children playing in Alexandra township, Johannesburg
Kirsten Alana recalls shared a similar experience, “I remember standing on Vilakazi Street in Soweto and thinking that if two Nobel Peace Prize winners could come from one such humble street, surely nothing was stopping me from changing the world.”
South Africans have long been recognized as some of the most hospitable people in the world, a fact graciously acknowledged by both Keith and J.D. If volunteering is close to your heart, you’d do well to pay attention to Sandy who notes, ”South Africa’s volunteer opportunities are some of the most humbling and rewarding experiences to be had and allow families, individuals, groups and couples to immerse themselves in the local culture, whilst providing locals with the gift of upliftment”.
8115 Vilakazi Street, Soweto, previously home to Nelson Mandela.
Perhaps the last word in this section should go to Matt Long, who, like many bloggers, discovered that South Africa really does get under your skin. He says, “Before I first visited South Africa I was warned that the ‘bug’ would grab hold and not let go. Everyone tells me that I’ll love every location I visit, so I didn’t think a lot about it. This time was different though and by the end of my adventures in South Africa, I had indeed caught that mysterious bug. South Africa enjoys a unique mix of qualities including staggering beauty, a rich culture and people so kind your teeth hurt. These and many more factors coalesce and truly do become more than the sum of their parts. A special magic is created that doesn’t just ensure a great trip, but changes at a molecular level turn any trip into a personally transformational experience. Before you accuse me of extreme bouts of hyperbolic imagery, just wait. Visit South Africa for yourself and then, and only then, can you tell me that I’m wrong.”
Are you ready to book your trip to South Africa now?
Sincere thanks must go to all the travel bloggers who shared their heartfelt thoughts on South Africa. Please, keep spreading the positive news on our amazing country.
The Wild Horses of Kaapsche Hoop
1197 days
Tucked away in a corner of the old Eastern Transvaal is the hamlet of Kaapsche Hoop. Comprising little more than a sandy, rutted main road, lined with period houses and quaint shops, the town has become well known for the large number of wild horses that roam freely in the area.
We knew very little of the town prior to my partner entering the 2012 Kaapsche Hoop marathon. Advertising for the marathon announced the opportunity to “run with the wild horses”, but we had very little knowledge of the area, let alone the famous wild horses.
Keep an eye open for the wild horses on the Kaapsche Hoop road
Wild horses at the side of the Kaapsche Hoop road
The day of the marathon dawned cold and misty and as we walked the “high street” towards the dreaded race porta-potties, a group of horses emerged from the mist and drifted towards us. Seemingly tame, a few approached me, sniffed my hands cautiously and allowed me to pat them. For the non-runners (like myself), this was really our only interaction with the horses, but for the runners, a forest detour on the race route was an opportunity to watch in awe as the wild horses galloped alongside them, a “magical experience”, as Davina reports.
Modern and ancient transport sit side by side in Kaapsche Hoop
The day after the race, we headed back to Kaapsche Hoop to get closer to these wild horses. Theories as to how the horses originate abound. Some suggest that when the area’s gold rush petered out, prospectors simply left their horses behind and moved on. Other theories range from horses left behind after the South African War (or the Boer War to us locals) in the early 1900’s to horses abandoned after the local police station shut down. Whichever story is true, these wild horses are the only herd in South Africa and are fiercely protected by the locals.
A young wild horse, on the look out for fresh grass
The current herd is estimated to number up to 200 horses and have full run of the town. We discovered a table of hungry visitors at a local pancake restaurant having to guard their breakfast from the foraging equines. You normally might lose your meal to a bird, a dog or even a monkey in Africa, but a horse? That’s a different story altogether!
A breakfast loving horse at the Koek ‘n Pan, Kaapsche Hoop
We took a stroll through some of the open fields behind the local houses and discovered a group of about 8 horses, grazing contentedly. Some of them came up to us, clearly looking for some easy treats, so Davina headed off to the car to pick up a bag of apples.
A group of wild horses, all sedate before we tempted them with apples
Big mistake.
Apparently they’re wild horses for a reason. No sooner had one horse sampled an apple, they were all clamouring around us to get a bite. Suddenly, they were showing signs of aggression, attacking each other to get to the bag and nipping at us (I have a rather nasty blue bruise on my arm from an impatient horse). We narrowly avoided getting kicked as one horse suddenly turned heel on us, so, tossing the last two apples into the field, we dashed back to the car as fast as we could, thankful that no hooves connected with our jaws!
Scenery and wild horses in Mpumulanga
It was only as we popped into a local store to fortify ourselves with a drink that we saw a “Don’t feed the horses” sign *sigh* …we should have known better. Next time you’re on your way to the Kruger Park or Mpumulanga, stop off at Kaapsche Hoop and meet the wild horses, but leave the apples and sugar lumps at home!
“Next time, we want more apples. And sugar cubes, k?”
Action and Entertainment at the Jozi Tens Rugby Tournament
0246 days
by Clare Appleyard
in South Africa
Right up front, I’ll admit that I’m not the world’s greatest rugby fan. Despite living in South Africa for nigh on 30 years, my English football roots are still strong. So much so that, on any given weekend, you’ll find me avoiding rugby like the plague and focusing instead on willing Liverpool to win a match, any match.
Now that you know this, you’ll understand my trepidation at the thought of attending the inaugural Jozi Tens rugby festival. A spin-off from the mightily successful Cape Town Tens festival (the biggest Tens rugby festival in the world), the Jozi Tens festival kicked off on Friday 14th September, fittingly with dark, heavy skies reminiscent of a Cape Town winter. Not knowing how 7’s Rugby differs in rules to regular 15-man rugby, the explanation that Tens rugby “is the same as 7’s, but with 10 men”, didn’t help me in the slightest. What I didn’t realise is that the Jozi Tens wasn’t just about the rugby, it’s an entire entertainment experience.
On-field action from the inaugural Jozi Tens rugby tournament
7 players, 10 players, 15 players – it doesn’t seem to matter, there are crunching tackles at every turn and, every so often, the ball will pop out from under a pile of men and be tossed to a nimble-footed giant who dashes down the line to score a try. The entire Jozi Tens tournament is geared around entertainment. Games are a mere 10 minutes per half and provide much more “running rugby” action than a regular game.
On the pitch, the players were out to win, but still managed to keep in the social spirit of the game by donning colourful wigs and massive American flag hats. With team names like “Disco Ninjas”, “Southern Faakers” and the “Zamalek Zulus”, you just know the object of the weekend was fun. However, it was the flatly named “MK Rage” team that ultimately beat the SA Rugby Legends in the final, doing what every other team had failed to do – steal points off some of the grand old dames of South African rugby.
Entertainment for all ages off the rugby field at Jozi Tens
However, it is the action off the pitch that provides the most entertainment at Tens rugby. Think music festivals, beer festivals and a beach party all rolled into one. Sadly, the “beach party” aspect didn’t materialize at Jozi Tens – perhaps it was something to do with the hail and rain on Friday night and the chilly temperatures on Saturday, but there was a distinct lack of bikini babes and shirtless jocks.
Me and Mr Brown on-stage at Jozi Tens, with plenty of beer hall action
The beer hall action kicked off on Friday night with awesome live music provided by Me and Mr Brown, covering rock classics from across the ages. These guys have cemented their reputation at the Cape Town Tens tournament and they had most of the beer hall up on their feet, dancing like nobody was watching.
Tight and bright on the field and off the field
DJ Sox threw out the dance tunes as the hall filled up with party-goers, many dressed up for the “Tight and Bright” dress-up competition. And tight and bright many of them were. Fluorescent colours abounded, as did tighty whitey shorts, but my vote of the night had to go to the Morph Suit men. Anybody brave enough to wear a fluorescent body suit deserves a prize. Ard Matthews and Gareth Cliff both kept the Friday night party going and there’s no doubt there were going to be some very hungover rugby players on Saturday morning.
The Morph Men take centre stage, and my vote, in the “Tight & Bright” competition
The Jozi Tens was a fabulous entertainment experience for the whole family and there is no doubt that, like the Cape Town Tens, it is going to cement its place on the Johannesburg sport and entertainment calendar. For those that can’t wait another year for the action, get yourself down to Cape Town for the 2013 tournament, on Friday 1st and Saturday 2nd February. Blue skies, cold beer and hot bodies are guaranteed!
Visit www.jozitens.com and www.capetowntens.com for updates and more information on the 2013 Tens events.
Many thanks to Getaway Magazine who sponsored our attendance at the 2012 Jozi Tens tournament; however, as always, all opinions and viewpoints are strictly our own.
Fishnets and Face Plants : My First Roller Derby Experience
2282 days
by Clare Appleyard
in South Africa
Way back in 2010, we watched a fabulous movie called “Whip It”, directed by Drew Barrymore. The movie focused on a shy, retiring character called “Bliss” who discovers the sport of roller derby and, to her surprise, finds out she’s quite good at it. We thoroughly enjoyed the movie – girls racing round a track on roller skates, wearing short clothes and touting stage names like “Maggie Mayhem”. The movie was fun, but we didn’t give it a second thought and didn’t even think that roller derby existed outside the USA.
Fast-forward to 2012 and a friend of mine Facebook invited us to South Africa’s second roller derby. What? It turns out that roller derby is alive and well in South Africa, thanks to a visionary lady who not only watched “Whip It”, but who believed there was a market for it in South Africa and made it her mission to start a league here.
Melinda Lotz, founder of South Africa’s C-Max Roller Derby League
And so it was that we found ourselves in Wembly Arena, in Johannesburg’s industrial south inner city on a cold Saturday night, trying to decide whether we’d be rooting for the Raging Whoremones or the Thundering Hellcats in the C-Max Death Row Demolition Derby. Roller derby is a counter-culture unto itself and a big part of the sport revolves around team names, individual names and outfits.
Wembley Arena fills up in anticipation of the Death Row Demolition Derby
The Raging Whoremones took to the track with bright pink helmets, button-down mini-dresses and, in many cases, leopard print panties. Fish-net stockings appeared to be optional! The Thundering Hellcats were kitted out in bandy yellow socks, equally short skirts and shorts, facial war-paint and kitty-ear-themed breast-plates (well, that’s what they looked like from the stands).
The Raging Whoremones take to the track in a flash of pink
Not personally knowing any of the skaters, we really weren’t rooting for one team over the other, but in the first half (lasting 30 mins), it became pretty clear that the Thundering Hellcats were whipping the Raging Whoremones, so we chose to root for the Whoremonal underdogs! Teams consist of 5 skaters and points are scored when one nominated skater (known as the jammer and identified by the star on her helmet) breaks through the group of cyclists to lap the track ahead of the other team’s jammer.
Ladies, are you ready? Hell yeah!
It sounds pretty straightforward, but when there are 4 members (sometimes, er, substantially sized) of the opposing team trying to block the jammer’s progress, things can get a little messy. Pushing, shoving, elbowing and tripping up all seem to be part of the game – you do what you can to stop the opposing jammer breaking through.
The Raging Whoremones jammer makes a mad dash for freedom
Gasps of “Ooooh”, “Ahhhh” and “Ouch!” rang out from the 1000-odd spectators each time a skater took a fall – and there were some heavy, heavy falls. How there were no broken bones is anybody’s guess. Miraculously, only one skater was escorted off the track with medical assistance but I’m guessing most girls would be sporting some pretty impressive bruises the next day.
Roller derby carnage
At half-time, the Thundering Hellcats had a substantial points lead over the Raging Whoremones, thanks mostly to the offensive, “go get ‘em” approach of their jammers. The second half bought a performance reversal though as we screamed and cheered for the Raging Whoremones, who started skating equally aggressively and stole a narrow victory from right under the Hellcats’ noses.
It’s pretty clear why protective gear is compulsory
We’re not sure when the next South African roller derby will be, but I’m pretty sure we’ll be down there to cheer on the teams! Come to think of it, it’s the kind of sport I could see myself doing, but I bruise so easily I’d be terrified of the shape I’d be in afterwards! On reflection, I’ll stick to a supporter’s role – it’s so much safer!
Jo’burg turns to Snowburg – not your typical winter’s day
4287 days
People frequently have incorrect, preconceived ideas about Johannesburg and South Africa. One is that we have lions roaming the streets; another is that if you go into downtown Johannesburg you’re likely not to make it out alive; another is that South Africa is always hot and sunny.
I really don’t wish to burst your bubble, but that last one could not be further from the truth today. Yes, it’s winter (we’re in the Southern Hemisphere remember? Something I continually have to remind my American friends about) and yes, it’s cold – but yesterday it snowed. Snow. Fluffy, white, freezing stuff in Johannesburg!
And the snow starts to fall….
We’re not just talking about a few flakes here and there, we’re talking about persistent snowfall for a good hour or so – enough to make snow angels, snowmen, throw snowballs with and for our puppies to have the time of their lives in.
Our puppy Gypsy gets to grips with snow for the first time ever
All around Johannesburg people were pulling over at the roadsides, whipping out cameras and clicking photographs. Cashiers from supermarkets were outside the shops shrieking with joy; children were let out of class early and in downtown Johannesburg, immigrant Africans were dashing out to cars and having their photos taken next to the snowy windscreens.
A sight rarely seen in Johannesburg!
We were lucky in our part of Johannesburg, we received more snow than most, but alas, it had melted within the hour, leaving only damp lawns and muddy footprints as evidence. For that hour though, it was wonderful to be able to feel like a kid again – full of wonder and amazement at the beauty of snow and excited about being alive!
Good job there were no flowers in our baskets…
Our snowy street in Johannesburg
Our garden turned into a winter wonderland
Next time you’re travelling to South Africa, don’t just assume that it’s going to be sunny and hot. Check the weather forecast as you might just need to bring your ski gear along!
Madame Zingara’s: The best night out in Johannesburg
2346 days
They came from Russia, the Ukraine and Khayelitsha. Acrobats, drag queens and skipping skeletons. Whether you’re looking for some risqué humour or jaw-dropping acrobatics, Madame Zingara’s has it all.
Started in Cape Town in 2001, Madame Zingara’s was a whimsical restaurant that firmly established itself as a local favourite. Tragically, the restaurant burnt down 5 years later and, in 2007, re-launched as a Madame Zingara’s Theatre of Dreams. Hosted in the very first Spiegel tent to hit African shores, and propped up by 1000 bevelled mirrors, Madame Zingara’s is pulling in hundreds of people each night – 420 to be exact – to eat, drink and be merry.
We joined the excited guests on Friday night, after having had to book two months in advance. My partner Davina had no idea what she was in for and my impression of what the evening would hold swung somewhere between Cirque du Soleil and a dinner cabaret show. We’d heard that dressing up for Madame Zingara’s was de rigeur, so I’d dutifully visited China Mall and topped up on beads, boas and basher hats (sparkly, of course).
- Madame Zingara’s whimsical world
Our visual senses were overwhelmed at every turn – flashing hearts, swinging tea-cups, giant lollypops and gilded carriages greeted us as we entered the lobby. Inside the tent, we were shown to our table and offered complimentary vodka, mint and lime cocktails. With a full house booked, thankfully the service worked like clockwork and in a flash our Mediterranean-inspired mezze platter and espresso-cup starter of butternut soup was served to warm us up.
The El Milagro show opened with a compere who welcomed “old faces, new faces and old faces with new faces”, setting the tone for an evening of humour. A pair of acrobats set the tone, swinging from the tent’s centerpiece chandelier with nary a safety harness in sight. In between the Russian gymnasts, the Ukrainian chair balancer and South Africa’s biggest Dream Girls trio, we feasted on butternut ravioli (heart-shaped, natch), a lamb shank that literally melted in my mouth and a trio of granadilla (passion-fruit) pannacotta, chocolate mousse and raspberry sponge.
- Left: The Mediterranean mezze. Right Top: Butternut ravioli. Right bottom: A trio of desserts
The glittering MC of the evening came close to stealing the show. Cathy Specific is South Africa’s “First Lady of Flight” and, with her two Trolley Dollies (Molly and Holly) kept the audience in stiches for most of the night. Sadly, there was a table behind us who couldn’t appreciate a “cock in a frock” and Cathy’s tale of reporting a “bumper lashing” at the local police station flew over many people’s heads (“Only the gay audience members got that”, observed Cathy).
- The leading ladies at the Theatre of Dreams. Top: Dream Girls. Bottom: Cathy Specific (centre) with her Trolly Dollies, Molly (left) & Holly (right).
The evening ended with a wonderful display by talented local artists. There was the gymnast who had us gasping as she rolled down from the roof of the tent, stopped from falling by only two broad ribbons and the skipping skeletons, three local lads from a Cape Town township who knew their way around skipping ropes like no-one we’d ever seen before. The stage was then cleared for the audience to take to the floor and dance the night away, which we did with much enthusiasm.
- Scenes from the show (taken very clandestinely)
If you’re still debating whether or not to treat yourself to a night with the Madame (with ticket prices from R410 – R495 you may be thinking twice about booking) let me give you three words of advice – just do it. But you’d better be quick. At the end of August the Madame packs up her mirror tent and heads back to Cape Town, so phone them now and you might just get to party with the cast in August.
The Best Sushi in Cape Town
2360 days
There is no doubt that Cape Town is home to some of the best restaurants in South Africa. Of 2011’s Top 10 South African restaurants, the Western Cape hosts 9 of the Top 10, with 5 of these being in Cape Town itself. Nobu makes the list and, as a speciality sushi and Japanese restaurant, must rate as one of the top places in Cape Town to eat sushi.
Not everybody can afford fine dining and Michelin-starred restaurants though, which is why my personal favourite for the freshest sushi in Cape Town has to be Beluga. Each year we make a pilgrimage to Cape Town for the Argus cycle tour and each year, we make a point of stopping past Beluga for a leisurely afternoon of sushi, dim sum and cocktails.
The perfect summer location for lunch in Cape Town
Beluga has hit on what has to be a winning combination – fine dining, excellent service and a daily half-price special. Judging by the popularity of Beluga, we’re not the only ones who appreciate the afternoon specials. An extensive selection of home-made dim sum and sushi platters are available for half-price every day from 12:00 noon till 6pm.
Beware of knocking over the peppar cellar, as I did.
The outside courtyard is the perfect place in summer to enjoy Cape Town’s warm afternoons, but in winter, the large indoor seating area will ensure that you are kept warm and dry. We started our lunch by ordering a selection of dim sum dishes. With combinations like prawns & coridander, beef ragout & mozzarella and duck & barbeque sauce, it’s tempting to order the entire menu.
Steamed beef fillet and ginger buns
We settled on beef fillet, ginger and barbeque sauce cha siu baau (steamed buns) and prawn & coriander deep-fried wontons. The steamed buns were light, fluffy and literally melted in our mouths. The home-made prawn wontons were jammed full of delicious prawn filling and were crisp and perfectly fried. If you’ve never tried dim sum before, these are a great introduction.
Prawn and coriander wontons, fried to perfection
One of the specials that have made Beluga famous is their half-price sushi platters and the “Blonde” platter in particular has been a perennial favourite. We ordered a platter to share and our mouths watered as 24 pieces of sushi and sashimi were placed in front of us for a measly R119 ($15). The tuna and salmon sashimi was melt-in-your mouth fresh and the caviar-topped sushi roses exploded with flavour at each bite.
The "Blonde" sushi platter, a steal at R119.
Sushi roses, exploding with flavour
Fresh from the sea tuna and salmon sashimi
As if that weren't enough, rainbow rolls and nigiri clamour for attention
Personally, I don’t drink, but my partner assured me that the Toblerone Martini (R22 or $7.50, at half-price) was delectable and the Blood Orange Coconut Mojito, Caramello Pear and Bellini Passion Fruit cocktails sound delicious enough to tempt even myself. My sweet tooth had to settle for the trade-mark jelly beans that accompanied our bill, a small part of the 4000kg’s of jelly beans that Beluga uses annually!
A sweet end to a delicious meal
The 2013 Argus tour seems a long way away and we might have to schedule another trip to Cape Town before that, to satisfy our Beluga sushi and dim sum fetish!
Beluga is located at The Foundry, Prestwick Street, Green Point, in Cape Town.
Leggings and lycra – a musical flashback to the 80’s
0444 days
by Clare Appleyard
in South Africa
Let me set the record straight before we start. I’m not a spontaneous kind of person – I like a good plan. The better and more comprehensive the plan is, the more comfortable I am with it.
So, when one evening my partner comes across an advertisement for an 80’s music concert in Durban (and we live in Johannesburg), I’d be the last person you’d expect to suggest travelling 600km’s for one night. But I did. You see, in my mind, 80’s music rocks. Having grown up listening to Wham, Duran Duran, Yazoo and much more, a significant portion of my music collection is dedicated to this unforgettable era. Unfortunately, some of the fashions were far more forgettable.
- The Working Girl outfit comes back for one last hurrah
Thus, it was a Saturday a few weeks back where Davina and I piled into my car mid-Saturday morning (she had run a half-marathon at 6am that morning) and bombed it down to Durban’s King’s Park Stadium for the biggest 80’s reunion concert you can imagine. With a line-up including Nik Kershaw, Howard Jones, Go West, The Village People, Marc Almond and Rick Astley, we knew we were going to have our fluorescent socks blown off.
- Cassette tapes: Far more versatile than they were in 1984.
Unfortunately, it turns out that the seats I’d carefully selected were the nose-bleed seats. Worse still, the acoustics were awful. We had no idea what the artists were saying, and we could just about hear the words to sing along to Nik Kershaw’s (one of my 80’s favourites) “Wouldn’t It Be Good”. By the time the third artist took to the stage, management had realized that the poor souls in the stands couldn’t hear a thing and they let us down on to the field. With great joy we found ourselves right next to the VIP zone and just 20m from the stage.
Without a doubt, one of the best parts of the concert was seeing the great outfits that people dressed up in. There was big hair, leg-warmers, fluorescent lycra, Village People characters, a Star Trooper and even Cyndi Lauper and Tina Turner made an appearance.
- The 80′s heroes came out in their droves
Each artist took to the stage for approximately 30 minutes, although old favourites like Midge Ure (the lead singer of Ultravox) got a bit of extra air-time – he treated us to classics like “Vienna”, “Dancing with tears in my eyes” and even sang Visage’s “Fade to grey”, a track that he originally penned for them. Most artists sang original 80’s songs, but a few recent covers were thrown in when Go West pelted out Kings of Leon’s “Sex on Fire” and Spandau Ballet’s Tony Hadley treated the crowd to his rendition of The Killer’s “Somebody told me”.
- Howard Jones encourages the crowd to get to know him well
Marc Almond was suitably flamboyant with his pink pashmina, and when the opening strains of “Tainted Love” filled the stadium, the crowd went wild. The Village People delighted with their popular track “YMCA” (what else?!) but it was Rick Astley, the last act of the night, who surprisingly showed the most character.
- The pink pashmina had clearly gotten hold of Marc Almond’s heart
“Who bought my first album?” yelled Rick to the crowd. “Thank you very much! You’ve put my daughter through school, bought me a lovely house in London and bought my mum a house too”. Swearing at regular intervals and stopping the music to have beer brought on to stage for the entire band, he had the crowd enthralled. When he left the stage without singing “Never Gonna Give You Up”, you just knew there had to be an encore. Not disappointing, Rick came back onto stage, having swopped his striped shirt and jacket (not a tie in sight) for a Sharks rugby jersey, he pelted out his classic 1987 hit.
- The Village People doing what they do best – standing to attention
Happy and exhausted, we left the stadium at 10:30pm for a solid night’s sleep before the long drive back to Johannesburg the next day. Was it worth a 10 hour, 1200km round trip? Absolutely – long live 80’s music!
P.S. If you’re in the UK and love 80′s music, check out the 80′s Rewind Festivals happening later this year in Scotland (July) and England (August).
How to ride an ostrich in South Africa
1489 days
by Clare Appleyard
in South Africa
The town of Outshoorn, in South Africa’s Klein (Little) Karoo, is famed for two things – the Cango Caves and ostrich farming. Why farm ostriches you may ask?
Ostrich meat is popular game meat in South Africa, available in most major supermarkets. It’s lean, high in protein and quite tasty and tender. Ostrich leather is great for shoes, handbags and belts and those huge feathers make fabulous feather dusters.
With a brain smaller than it's eye, Ollie wasn't the smartest bird around.
But apart from the practical uses to ostrich, there’s some fun to be had in Outshoorn learning to ride an ostrich. Ostrich races are fairly common on ostrich farms in the Outshoorn area, but be warned, it’s not as easy as the professionals make it look!
On a trip to the Cango Ostrich farm, we decided to try our hand at riding an ostrich, and realized that we were going to need a bit more help than we originally thought. Jacobus, our tour guide, had given us a demonstration before hand on how to “drive” an ostrich. How did he demonstrate the turns and stops? By using an ostrich feather duster of course.
The basic principle is that the neck of your ostrich is your control level – to turn left, push it to the left; to turn right, push it to the right. And to slow down? Why, you have only pull back on the neck as if it’s a brake lever.
After this basic driving lesson, we were guided out to the racing coop where our ostrich awaited us. The riding ostriches wore a basic cloth covering on their backs, hardly enough to cushion either the ostrich or the rider. Before mounting the ostrich, it was led into a pen, with a hood over it’s head, sadly making it look like it was being led to an execution.
Like a lamb to the slaughter, a visitor to South Africa saddles up
Once safely in the pen, I mounted the ostrich as if it were a horse, but instead of having stirrups to put our feet in, I had to cross our legs at the front of the bird, holding on as tightly as possible. Each of the giant wings served as a rein, one left, one right and, we were assured that leaning back in the non-existent saddle would keep you stable and upright. Suddenly, with a quick flick of Jacobus’ hand, the executioner’s hood was removed and I was off.
It turns out that an ostrich can run pretty fast. Being carried along at such speed was quite exhilarating, and I was beginning to feel pretty proud of myself for staying on for so long. The sense of achievement wore off however when I realized that on either side of the ostrich there was a handler making sure that I didn’t take a tumble.
Although the ride was short and sweet, it was great fun and will definitely serve as a quick, and inexpensive (R69 for the entire ostrich tour) adrenalin shot. If you find yourself in the Outshoorn area whilst travelling South Africa, be sure to stop off at a local ostrich farm to see for yourself.
Sadly, the touted "Ostrich massage" is little more than a feeding frenzy.
Why I love Photowalking
6505 days
by Clare Appleyard
in South Africa
Early in 2011, thanks to the power of social media, I was introduced to a group on Facebook called the “Joburg Photowalkers”. The group was started by a couple of Johannesburg-based photography lovers who wanted to share their passion for photography and Johannesburg with other like-minded people.
The concept is simple – at regular intervals (normally at least weekly), a “Photowalk” venue is suggested and a meeting time and place is set. All that’s left for you to do is arrive at the required meeting point, at the correct time, with your camera (and, if necessary, tripod) in tow. Having been on a number of photowalks in the past year, I’ve enjoyed myself immensely on each one and have learnt a great deal in the process. Here’s why I love photowalking so much:
1. You’re surrounded by willing teachers
Photography is a game in which there is always something to learn. For a hack like myself, who has never taken lessons, the photowalks are an invaluable opportunity to gather hints and tips from photographers more experienced than myself. Whether it’s the advantage of increasing your ISO setting at night, or adjusting the white balance to capture the true colour of a flower, there is always a willing teacher to help you improve your photography.
A simple increase in ISO from 100 (top) to 400 (bottom) yields amazing results.
2. Borrowing and experimenting with other people’s equipment
Very few photographers own all the equipment they’d like to. You’re always yearning for an additional lens or gadget that will enhance your photography. Photowalking allows you to chat to the person who has the lens you crave (in my case a Canon 10-22mm wide angle lens) and on my last photowalk I was thrilled to discover my good friend Karen was willing to lend me hers to shoot a few shots of the Sandton skyline. It gave a completely different perspective to what I could achieve with my own equipment.
Downtown Sandton: the joy of a borrowed wide-angle lens (thanks Karen!)
3. Discover parts of the city you didn’t know existed
No matter how long you’ve lived in a city for, there will still be parts of it that you have not yet explored or possibly don’t even know existed. We’re still discovering new parts of Johannesburg, and some of that has to be attributed to the photowalks. From 5 star Sandton hotels to the back roads of the townships, you’ll gain a new awareness of the diversity of Johannesburg.
Giant graffiti under Johannesburg's M1 bridge
4. Access to places that are usually off-limits
All too often you’ll look at a photograph and wonder how the photographer got permission to access the top of that building or to go beyond that security perimeter. One of the great things about being a photowalker is that on many of the walks, we have organized access to locations that you’d never be able to access as a solo photographer. We’ve accessed buildings ranging from historical, derelict buildings like the Old Johannesburg General Hospital to penthouse suites in the luxury Michelangelo and Radisson Hotels. Each location provides an opportunity to shoot scenes normally out of reach.
Abandoned and derelict staff quarters, Old Johannesburg General Hospital
5. Safety in numbers
If you’ve ever read up on Johannesburg, you’ll have heard the horror stories. Muggings, rapes, murders, hi-jackings…the list of horrors is endless. Except, it’s not really that bad. We live a pretty normal life in Johannesburg and know that what the media reports and what you read on the internet is nowhere close to a true reflection of life in the city. That said though, there are instances where you need to use common sense. Walking through Hillbrow flashing a DSLR and telephoto lens, or hanging around under the M1 bridge at night might not be your smartest move, but with the Photowalkers, you’re frequently in a group of 20 + photographers and often with a pre-arranged security guard, so safety is never something you need to worry about.
Never fear, there's always a strapping man near with the Photowalkers
6. A chance to socialize
Human beings are inherently social and you can never overlook the importance of socializing “on the job”, so to speak. Joburg Photowalkers come from all walks of life – you’ll meet dyed-in-the-wool Johannesburgers, visiting out-of-towners, expat wives, professional photographers and on-location volunteers, to name but a few of our kin. With such a diverse, and large array of members, you never know what lifelong friends and business connections you might meet when you choose to walk the streets of Johannesburg with us.
Namrata and Karen - photowalks are as much about socialising as they are about taking photographs.
For more information on the Joburg Photowalkers, or to join our merry little group, please visit the Facebook Page. If you’re interested in starting a Photowalking group in your own town or city, I’d recommend contacting one of our founders, via the Facebook Page, and enquiring as to how to best go about it.
